Day 50: Amritsar and the Golden Temple

To finish off my narrative about day 49 I should mention that we got to Amritsar around 11:00. It was raining and it was much colder than we were prepared for. We took a rickshaw straight to the Golden Temple and were surprised to see that people were still walking around the grounds. We checked our shoes, walked around a corner and then all of a sudden this is what we saw…

I had been excited to come to this place but in that moment it hit me that I was really there! I was really seeing the Golden Temple. It was better than pictures and the complex around it was huge. All around the temple and the lake is this white building and in the alcoves hundreds of people, mostly pilgrims, sleep under blankets. The complex is open ALL night. We were so lucky to get there at night because there was no line to go right up to the temple and to go in. There were just some devotees doing some kind of ceremony inside the temple. It was beyond amazing and so peaceful.

After doing this we went to go find the free hostel that the temple offers to pilgrims and tourists who come to visit this site. We found this huge building (one of many) where we were led to a room off to the side. We were confused at first but then the Sikh man led us into another room that was lined with beds. The beds were all full and right away we realized that this spot was specifically for foreigners. Even though there weren’t any beds the lodge guard/manager gave us some spots on the floor. He gave us these HUGE, THICK blankets. One we used as a mattress and the other we used as a blanket. You would think that sleeping on the floor would be uncomfortable, but no! I slept amazingly well.

At about six thirty in the morning the guard woke us up and told us that a few spots had been freed up on the beds. So I got to sleep between what looked like a Chinese guy and a Pakistani guy. It was so funny! Just one of those situations where you ask yourself, “Where even am I right now?” We couldn’t even take in all the generosity of this place. It was overwhelming and so special.

We slept in till 9 and then got up to go look at the temple in the daylight again. It was much busier by that time. I would love to know the stats on how many people sleep there on a typical night because it is beyond amazing how they allow for that kind of thing.

Then we went to get food… because not only do they provide free shelter but they also feed people 24/7. They have this amazing system of volunteers and workers set up to provide meals. It was delicious and we were just in awe when we left. We will never forget this place. You can tell just by being around the people that there is something very different about them. I don’t know what it is but this is our favourite place so far. SOOOO worth coming.

We went and did some  looking around for a little while in the afternoon. The crafts and goods in this city are also very different than anywhere else we have been. I got these beautiful shoes…

But there were so many other things that I wish I could take home to people! If only backpacking wasn’t so limiting haha

Right before we left downtown Amritsar we went to this park. This is the site of a massacre by the British colonizers many years ago. It was turned into a memorial as a reminder of what the Indian’s who died were advocating for: non-violence.

Here I met two French Canadians!! I was walking by this girl when I heard her speaking French.. I stopped and kind of turned towards her because I could swear that her accent sounded like mine. She caught my eye and asked where I was from. We were all excited J It was so good to talk to them for a while! Randomest place to meet French Canadians! Haha

(okay my descripition of this day is getting long but it was a really good, eventful day)

After this we met up with Mr. Singh, a man that owns a hostel/couch surfing place just outside of the city. His place is completely free for foreigners since he is payed by the Punjab government to promote rural tourism. This is where we are staying FOR FREE (I’m not even kidding):

We spent the rest of our day relaxing. In the evening there was a dance performance and dinner. We sat around and talked with an Australian couple that was also boarding here for free. They were great! Both were very educated and very well travelled. They have been in India for 2 ½ weeks already. We swapped travel advice and learned about each other’s countries.

Last but not least Mr. Singh, our host, taught us how to tie turbans. I was afraid it might be insulting or something but he assured us it was fine! So he helped us each put them on. So fun! I couldn’t help but think I looked a lot like a boy when I was wearing it but it kept our heads warm. Mr. Singh cunningly pointed out that there are many benefits to wearing a turban—most of all that the wearer is always warm and that whitening or balding heads can be well hidden. I would add that it helps to hide the crazy backpacking hair I’ve been sporting for the last few days ;)

Now we are curled up in our blankets. Car and Israel are probably asleep. And I should be too! Who knows what we will do tomorrow!

Love,
Stef


(I meant to add a lot more pictures but my internet is painfully slow... till later then!)